Sunday, November 4, 2012

On foot, by bus, by boat: a trek through Patagonia


Sharing an Atlantic and Pacific coastline and the southern tip of the Andes mountains, Patagonia is home to some of the most dramatically varied landscapes on earth. European explorers first named the region after the mythical patagon, a race of giants that they believed lived in this distant land.

The Magellanic penguin, which lives in self-created underground burrows, is the only penguin in the world with a double stripe on its chest. Península Valdés, Argentina
 These penguins survive extreme dryness by internally desalinizing saltwater so they can drink from the ocean. Ponto Tombo, Argentina
Las toninas, small dolphins of about one meter in length, swim in groups and enjoy racing motorboats by teaming up at the bow of the boat. Puerto Madryn, Argentina
The Southern Right Whale can grow to be 15 meters long.  Despite their massive size, the seagull is one of the whales' worst predators, diving down to pick open the skin of the whale when it surfaces for air. Península Valdés, Argentina
The Perito Moreno Glacier, one of only three Patagonian glaciers that is growing, creates a natural dam in Lago Argentino as it is wedged between two rock faces.  Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina
The ice of the glacier stretches down to as much as 120 meters below the surface of the lake before it hits bedrock. Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina
When the iceberg shifts, shards of ice explode into the air at very high speeds and have taken the lives of sightseers standing too close. Now there is an intricate pasarella designed for viewing the glacier at a safe distance.  Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina
The jagged top of the glacier is said to mirror the shape of the bedrock, meters and meters below.  Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina
Parts of the glacier are safe for trekkers to explore. Sometimes trekkers can hear the splitting sound of the ice as it shifts and cracks.  Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina
Crampons are enough to tackle the glacier; bringing an icepick asks for another type of adventure! Perito Moreno glacier, Argentina
Glacial water takes its color from the sediment of the bedrock.   Perito Moreno glacier, Argentina
Over the hill from Lago Argentino, many birds find sanctuary in Laguna Nimez.  El Calafate, Argentina

Despite the extreme weather of the steppe, small flowers and berries start to show in early spring.  El Calafate, Argentina
The Upland Geese of Patagonia travel in pairs; it is rare see the male (white) and female (dark brown), leave each other's sides as they look for food.  Tierra del Fuego National Park, Argentina


Boats docked at the harbour in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. Ushuaia, Argentina

Leaving the Ushuaia port, it would be another 380 miles to reach Antarctica, about the distance from Los Angeles to San Francisco.  Ushuaia, Argentina

The suffix "aia," meaning "bay," comes from the language of the indigenous Yaghan, or Yámana people. Ushuaia, Argentina

It was 180 years ago that Darwin sailed through the canal that is now named after his ship. Beagle Channel, Argentina

The Faro Les Eclaireurs marks the gateway to Ushuaia, illuminating jagged rocks and shallow waters. Beagle Channel, Argentina
The sea lion (lobo marino) of Patagonia is large in size; females grow to 350 pounds and males can be up to 770 pounds. Beagle Channel, Argentina
Sea lions have their name because the males appear to have the mane of a lion. Beagle Channel, Argentina


Imperial Cormorants dive into the ocean to catch fish and then return to their nests on coastal cliffs. Beagle Channel, Argentina

For some sea-farers, reaching the Faro Les Eclaireurs might seem like finding the gold at the end of the rainbow. Beagle Channel, Argentina

The Yaghan people survived by canoeing from island to island to forage for food, harvest mussels, and hunt sea lions. Small island, Beagle Channel, Argentina

Across the Beagle Channel, snow-capped mountains loom on Chilean soil.  Beagle Channel, Argentina

While it appears to be moss covering a stone, this cushion plant starts as one tiny bud, and slowly swells, growing at a rate of one millimeter per year. Island in Beagle Channel, Argentina
Adventurous motorists who want to traverse the continent can take the "Pan-American Highway:" starting point, Deadhorse Alaska-- final destination, Ushuaia.  Ushuaia, Argentina

Crossing the Magellan Strait by boat is the only way to complete the international bus route from Ushuaia, Argentina, into Chile.  Magellan Strait, Chile

Guanacos, mammals of the camel family, roam the steppe of Torres del Paine National Park.  Their only natural predator is the mountain lion, although the indigenous Tehuelche people have been known to hunt them mainly for their pelts.  Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

Trekking through the Torres del Paine National Park, hikers are told to expect all four seasons of weather in one day.  Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

The howling winds can completely conceal or completely reveal snow-capped peaks in a matter of seconds.  Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

Sadly, the extreme winds contributed to the spread of an accidental fire set by campers in December, 2011, which burned 36 km² of natural forest and another 128 km² of the park.  Torres del Paine National Park, Chile
Massive donations and efforts were made to reforest the park; some regrowth has occurred, but the natural habitat can never be fully restored.  Torres del Paine National Park, Chile


One valley that used to be home to many hummingbirds due to its unique shelter from the wind was destroyed in the fire, forcing the birds to look for shelter elsewhere. Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

Many bird species manage to thrive throughout the austral winter. Torres del Paine National Park, Chile
The Andean Condor, the national bird of Chile, soars above with finger-tip like wings.  As an adult, the condor can have a wingspan of up to 3.2 meters. Torres del Paine National Park, Chile
The Torres (towers) and Cuernos (horns) in Torres del Paine National Park are more jagged than the peaks of the adjacent Andes because they are younger, and have therefore been subject to less erosion. Los Cuernos, Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

Glacier Grey creeps around the corner as it sends mini icebergs into the lake. Glacier Grey, Chile

The word "paine" comes from the indigenous Tehuelche word for "blue." Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

Hikers are lucky if they reach the viewpoint of Los Torres with a clear sky to view the towers.  Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

It is general knowledge in the park that hikers can safely refill their water bottles with water from the springs.  Torres del Paine National Park, Chile
Many types of flowers bloom in springtime Patagonia, including the fragrant and bright yellow Calafate flower that yields an edible berry of the steppe.  Patagonia, Chile/Argentina


People come from all over the world to experience the natural beauty of Chile's Patagonia. It is common to see both the Chilean National flag flown together with the flag of Magellan. Torres del Paine National Park, Chile